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Here's a great testing set of vintage SYLVANIA USA tubes ready to roll in your old Vibro or Valco type amplifier. I keep getting emails from my customers telling me just how pleased they are to hear their amp ROAR after swapping out current production JJ/Sovtek/Shangalang for real old-school American made tubes. Get the tone and sustain you've been missing, and fall in love with your old amp all over again. Or better yet, but these for someone you know has a Vibro Champ... it's likely to be the most pleasnat of surprises on Xmas morning!
All tubes tested negative for shorts and gas.
A) NOS NIB Sly Blackplate 6V6GTY Power tube... the GTYY is the military-spec low-noise version of the 6V6GT, and can go into any socket calling for one, the same electrically. These are simply made way more rugged, to withstand the rigors of military operations/high vibration scenarios... they last lomger and you dont have to worry about them being so dang fragile! With 2600 minimum for good on my Pro Hickok 539C, this shouts out loud and proud at 4525! Current draw is 33 @400 volts test... strong tube guys and dolls!
B) SLY 5Y3GT BLACKPLATE rectifier tube... BIG thick rugged plate construction. With 54 minimum for good it ring in at a strong 90/91.
C) TWO used SLY/Philips preamp tubes tested very good... one Sly 12ax7 at 1475/1525, and one Sly/Philips 7025/12ax7 at 1575/1300 with 875 minimum.
Shipped FREE to the lower 48
Shipped WORLDWIDE via 1st class mail international $10... if LESS to your country, a Paypal refund of the difference when I return from the shipper.
Check out my many other auctions for MORE cool vintage tubes and sets...
PEACE
I have invested thousands in professional equipment (Hickok539C, 209A, MaxiMatcher, etc…) to try and offer you the most accurate readings possible. Compare this to other sellers using Grandpa’s old $40 tabletop tester out in the garage, selling so-called “matched” tubes tested for emissions only (with no mention of mutual conductance, or CURRENT DRAWS). However, my tester is not your tester. Two identical machines, make and model, and both calibrated correctly will still have a variance of a certain percentage. ADD to that the differences between regulated power supplies vs. wall power, other devices operating on the same circuit, surges and drops locally, etc… The buyer acknowledges these variables as inevitable when purchasing these items, and accepts the readings offered as ballpark figures rather than surgery.
Amplifiers should be re-biased each time you change out your power tubes… simply pulling out your old ones and plugging in the new is of course not recommended. Yet a great many people do just that. I stand behind my tubes as well-tested and to perform properly upon placing them into service with this single necessary stipulation only: I accept returns and offer refunds when the customer is able to provide to me, via email, a verifiable receipt of professional installation by a qualified technician. Amateurs and hobbyists experimenting with their own limited knowledge and various amplifiers of dubious disrepair I do not. I can have no idea what state your amp is in, if you bothered to re-bias, or of your abilities to work with complicated equipment requiring pro skills. Tubes are easily damaged with the slightest error… so these tubes are warranted to work properly upon installation (not beyond) so long as you have them professionally installed and re-biased. Simple enough, and better for you and your amp too.